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At Brach Madrid Restaurant, traditional cuisine meets contemporary technique in a Black Angus cheek dish that showcases the ingredient and its flavours. Eugenio Fragomeni, Executive Chef at Brach Madrid, share with the members of SIE, Spain Is Excellence the secrets behind a dish that combines grilling, slow cooking and a dash of quince vinegar.
Pork cheek, a traditional ingredient in Spanish cuisine, is transformed in the kitchens of Brach Madrid using a variety of techniques designed to preserve its essence and enhance its flavour. First, it is marinated in a brine flavoured with thyme and garlic; then it is seared in the Josper oven to impart a subtle hint of charcoal, and finally, it is cooked slowly for 48 hours at 70 °C in a meat jus cut with quince vinegar.
“Of all the dishes on the menu, we’ve chosen the pork cheeks because we believe they’re one of the dishes that best represents Brach’s philosophy and DNA, tailored to Madrid’s clientele,” explains Fragomeni. “It’s a generous dish with real character. Pork cheeks are a typical ingredient in traditional cuisine which, when prepared with care, can be extremely versatile.”
The accompaniments also play a vital role. The leek, cooked slowly in its own juices to retain its flavour and texture, provides a gentle counterpoint to the intensity of the meat. The dish is finished with petals and pistachios, which add freshness and a crunchy contrast.
The result is a well-balanced dish in which the sauce complements the meat without overpowering it. The slightly citrusy note of the quince vinegar helps to lighten the meat juices and ensures that the flavour of the beef cheeks remains the star of the show.
For the brine
• 1 litre of water
• 100 g coarse salt
• ⅓ of a bunch of thyme
• 1 head of garlic, peeled
For the leek
• 500 g of leek
• 15 g of salt
For the cheek
• 250–300 g of Black Angus cheek
• 50 g of meat juice
• 20 g of quince vinegar
To conclude
• Edible petals
• Pistachios
1. The brine
Bring the water to the boil and remove from the heat. Add the salt, thyme and garlic and stir until the salt has completely dissolved. Leave to cool before using.
2. The cheekbone
Clean the meat and leave it in the brine for an hour. Drain and dry thoroughly. Sear on both sides over a high heat until golden brown. At Brach Madrid, they use the Josper to achieve that subtle charcoal flavour.
3. Cooking
Place the beef cheek in a vacuum bag together with approximately 70 g of beef cheek sauce, made from meat stock to which quince vinegar has been added. Cook at 70 °C for 48 hours in a steam oven.
4. The leek
Use only the white part and dice it into medium-sized brunoise. Place it in a saucepan with the salt and cook, covered, over a low heat, allowing it to cook in its own juices. Stir frequently and ensure it does not brown.
5. The sauce
Once cooked, set aside some of the juices for plating up and reduce the rest together with the cheeks to concentrate their flavours.
Heat the leek, taking care to ensure it retains its moisture. Place it at the base of the plate and arrange the pork cheek on top, lightly coating it with its own sauce. Finish with edible petals and pistachios, and add a little more sauce around the leek.
A recipe that encapsulates the philosophy of Brach Madrid Restaurant: taking a recognisable product, respecting its essence and elevating it to a new dimension through technique and balance. A showcase of the culinary creativity that forms part of the world of the members of SIE, Spain Is Excellence .
Brach Madrid reinterprets tradition with its Black Angus beef cheek
Brach Madrid Restaurant reinterprets traditional cuisine with its Black Angus beef cheeks, a dish created by Eugenio Fragomeni that combines charcoal grilling,
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